High Altitude Cooking and the Metric System

I enjoy cooking.  But cooking has been an adventure since we moved to South America.  Not only are there fruits and vegetables here that I've never seen before, but living at 8,000 feet presents some challenges, as well as learning the metric system.  Why is the U. S. not on the metric system?  It sure would make it easier for everyone to be on the same system, as most of the world is on the metric system.

(Note:  C = centigrade, and F = fahrenheit)

The reason that the high altitude affects cooking and baking is because of the lower atmospheric pressure due to a thinner blanket of air.  As altitude increases, atmospheric pressure decreases, and this in turn causes:

• Water to boil at 196.9 degrees F (at my altitude) instead of 212 degree as at sea level.
• Leavening (baking powder, baking soda, cream of tartar) to expand more.
• Yeast doughs to rise too quickly and too high.
• Sugar solutions to become more concentrated in frostings, candies, jellies, and baked products.
• Faster evaporation of liquids in all cooking processes.
• Drying out of normal moisture in most food products.

I am using a high altitude cookbook that I bought on Amazon when I was back in the States.  And a friend has given me a bi-lingual Andean cookbook, using the produce you'll find in the markets here.  I'm just starting to learn how to cook with the different recipes.

In addition, it is necessary to convert from the U. S. customary system to the metric system, such as:

Oven Temperatures
Slow Oven:          (300 to 325 F) converts to 149 to 163 C
Moderate Oven:   (340 to 375 F) converts to 177 to 191 C
Hot Oven;            (400 to 425 F) converts to 204 to 218 C.
(Remember that water freezes at 0 degrees C, and boils at 100 degrees C.)

Other Conversions:

• A liter equals a little more than a quart (1 quart plus 3 tablespoons)
• A kilogram equals a little more that two pounds (2.2 pounds)
• 1 cup of butter equals 200 grams
• 1 cup of sugar equals 190 grams
• 1 cup of flour equals 140 grams
• 1 cup of rice equals 150 grams
• 1 cup of liquids equals 1/4 liter

There are many cities in the  U. S. at high altitudes so this information is just a review for many cooks living in the mountains.


Other Differences Not Relating to Cooking

• Also, an easy rule of thumb in converting the outside temperature from centigrade to fahrenheit is:  take the C temperature and double it, then add 30 and you'll get an estimate of the F temperature.
• I've learned how to tell time on a 24 hour system (i.e., 20:00 = 8PM)
• The date is different here (i.e., October 1st (10/01/11) is 01/10/11 (day first, then month).
• Numbers are written with the commas and decimals switched (i.e., $5.89 = $5,89; $1,364 = $1.364; $1,740,003 = $1'740.003).
• And don't even get me started on the language difference!

Oh well, lots to learn and laugh about.  My spanish lessons are going great.  My friend Noshy comes to my apartment three days a week for two hours at a time and in spite of our laughing and joking, we do accomplish some learning on my part.

Until next time (hasta luego),
Patty

Hacienda San Isidro

It started out with an invitation to dinner.  Would we like to be guests to an enchanted evening?  One never knows what to expect, especially when details are sketchy (but that makes it even more fun!).

We were to meet our friends at their residence at 5:30 p.m.  Then, the four of us caught a taxi to the residence of another invited guest.  After being greeted and ushered into this palacial residence, we quickly learned that this person's taste in decor was exquisite.  He was a retired Hollywood producer, and singer living out a quiet life on the outskirts of Cotacachi.

Once all of the invited guests arrived, we then started our caravan up the mountainside to a 300 year old hacienda.  Typical haciendas, historically, encompass over a thousand acres.  With cattle grazing on the side of the volanco Cotacachi, large farming areas and stables, these haciendas were long ago designed to be self-sufficient, and this one is no exception.  (We felt like we had taken a step back in time.)  When Hacienda San Isidro was built on the side of the volcano, transportation was by horseback, so the condition of the roads was not that important.  However fast forward to the 21st century, and the 30 minute drive "up" the mountain was, shall we say, a little bumpy!

Upon arriving at the Hacienda, we were greeted with a hug and kiss by the hosts, just like we were long-lost family.  We were escorted to the candlelit parlor, complete with a warm fireplace and an aperitif of hot wine, served with cheese and crackers.  Our host explained that the candlelit parlor reminded him of when they didn't have electricity and lived by candlelight, so even though they have electicity now, it brings back wonderful memories of days long past.

We relaxed in the parlor, sipping our wine, and engaging in conversation as we waited for our host to announce that dinner was being served.  We made our way into the large dining room, where there were three tables of varying sizes.

Our party (of ten) sat at the largest table (a rectangle shape).  The family waited until we were all seated before they then sat at the circular table set for eight.  Included at the family table was a childhood friend of the matriarch of the Hacienda.  We learned that this beautiful lady was the daughter of a past president of Ecuador.

But who was the square table for?

We learned that our dinner was prepared by a visiting Italian chef staying with the family, and she had created a tasting menu for the evening.

The first course was the antipasto, consisting of focaccia, salumeria (Italian salami, pepperoni, olives., etc.), Italian cheeses, and insalata mixta (mixed greens and tomato salad with dressing).  Of course, we all had a glass of wine, either red or white, according to our preferences.

It was at this point in the evening, that the other guests arrived -- two couples in their twenties, who we assumed where the children of the family.  They greeted everyone in the room before sitting at the small square table behind us.

Before being served the main course, we were all given a small serving of a light sorbet to cleanse our palate.  The main couse consisted of homemade pasta, made that day.  There were three different kinds of pasta:  ravioli, fettucine, and linguine.  And three different kinds of sauce:  bolognese, puttanesca, and pesto. 

The pastas were served one at a time, with enough pasta for two people being placed between each group of two, and we served ourselves.  After each serving of pasta, our plates and silverware were changed so none of the flavors mixed and our tasting menu stayed pure.

Sitting at our table were a couple that had traveled the world and in fact were getting ready to spend a month in Thailand.  Also, there was a couple from England who are land developers and building a retirement community in Cotacachi.  And, there was the Hollywood producer (we now have his CD of smooth romantic jazz).  Very interesting conversation ensued.

After dinner comes dessert, actually three different kinds.  Of course one being tiramisu, which was light and creamy.  Following dessert and ending the evening, we were served a digestif of cognac.

Even though I spent about three hours at the dinner table sampling incredible cuisine, I didn't feel stuffed when it was time to go home.  We arrived back at our hostal at 11:30 p.m., and had to ring the doorbell and wake up our host to let us in as we were locked out.  But what an enchanted evening it was!

Fiesta de la Jora

When we were recently in Cotacachi, the Fiesta de la Jora was taking place.  Below is a description of what the festival was about:

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Celebrations of the Fiesta de la Jora

JORA:  a celebration of the sprouting corn (Jora) which unites and strengthens the Andean people and cultures.

Year after year in September, Cotacachi celebrates the festivals of la Jora with song and dance -- an intercultural activity that attracts many tourists to the city. The Festival of Jora has Inca roots and is based on the permanent interplay of three elements:  nature, people, and the“creative forces”. According to the indigenous native concept, the balance of these elements gives rise to our life.

This is the start of the planting season for corn, beans, chochos, and quinoa. The locals traditionally thank Nature (which they call Pacha Mama) for the fertility of the earth. In this Fiesta de la Jora, the fruits of the earth mother are specially treated so that making and drinking the Chicha together serves as a symbol of reciprocity with the deities, solidarity with neighbors, and even a kind of redistribution of what they have managed to produce together.

This celebration began to be recognized as part of Cotacachi community identity 51 years ago, and was founded as a public festival by members of the Club El Nacional, who since the early years designated a Queen of the Jora for her moral, intellectual and physical qualities. Over time, a civil Party Committee took over the task of organizing this event with the support of the Municipal Administration. The Fiesta de la Jora, with its displays of music, culture, art and gastronomy has always been a reflection of the essence of Cotacachi.

Chicha, drink of the gods:   Corn, known in most of the world as maize, is the grain held as most sacred in the Andean Cosmo-vision, and the calendar of sowing and harvesting rituals revolves around this. The basic component of the traditional drink of September is maize in all of its varieties. Traditionally, the earliest inhabitants of Cotacachi, after the harvest of maize, offered sacrifices to the God or gods whom they worshipped. After ceremonies, they drank this refreshing chicha de jora (corn), together with the peoples and chiefs of the surrounding areas.

Preparation:   The process of preparing the Chicha de Jora is long and laborious. It is first necessary to know that this beverage was used in the past for Minga (community work-togethers), as well as for regular working days to quench thirst and provide energy. The local version of fermented Chicha is prepared with 7 dry grains such as: (germinated) maize, wheat, barley, white and yellow and chulpe corn grains and a popcorn type called canguil. It is a process that takes about 3 months starting with germinating maize in leaves of “gilguirillas”, changing the soaking water continuously for 12 days. These sprouted grains, together with other ingredients, are left to dry a specific period of time before being roasted or toasted and then ground. The mixture that results is placed in a bronze vessel filled with water. Bronze is said to give a characteristic flavor. Left to boil for at least 8 hours, water and additional herb and spice ingredients are added, depending on personal or regional preferences. Then this preparation is fermented in a container which is known as pondo. This natural fermentation process is traditionally only for a few days at which point, the Chicha is strained and sweetened and ready for consumption. The level of alcohol is very low at this point -- about 2 percent, although with a longer ferment it can become a little stronger.

 Jora in a National Context:   The economic activity recorded on the city feast days is high. Leather handicrafts and local gastronomy are featured, with typical dishes including Carnes Coloradas, meat colored and flavored with Annato. Cuicocha Lake with its unique landscape, is a main attraction for national and international tourists. For this years’ Festival, the Municipality of Cotacachi and the Festival Committee have prepared several activities to celebrate the 2011 Jora from the 2nd to the 18^th of September.

The Parade of Joy will be Friday, September 9^th at 3PM on the main streets of the town with floats carrying national and international delegations; and the festivities opening program will be made livelier by several Ecuadorian groups and the Colombian Matecaña orchestra. For Saturday, September 10^th, the election and Coronation of the Queen of the Jora is the central activity. And on Sunday, September 11 a contest for the best Chicha de Jora, a food fair showcasing local products and at midday there will be artistic finale events to conclude these special days of celebration.

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Below are pictures that I took of the various food booths, the crafts, etc.

Starting the cooking process

This little girl is cooking their special delicacy (cuy). 
Notice how pretty she looks in the traditional dress.  The young girls wear
clothes just like their mom's but made smaller for their size.

Another young girl helping out

Here is the local craft market, located at Parque de la San Francisco.  Cotacachi is known for their fine leather products.

Here is Mike with a sculpture in the park.  This park is the smaller of two parks in Cotacachi.

Oh oh, someone's coming!

He had to keep moving so as not to fall

There he goes . . .

 Here is a picture of an indigenous couple.  The traditional dress for women is long skirts with a white pleat down the side.  They wear beautiful blouses that are hand-embroidered.  The men wear white slacks and panama hats.  Both men and women wear their hair in one long braid, down the middle of their back.

A mural at City Hall

 We stayed in a hostal called La Cuadra.  It was very nice and the price was right ($15 per person, per night).  There was a community kitchen and dining room.

The lobby

Our hostess

One of the common rooms

We stayed a week in Cotacachi and really enjoyed the weather.  It was sunny and warm every day.  Now we are back in Cuenca, and it is cold and cloudy, just like we left it.

Pizza Hut

OK  --  so what's so special about Pizza Hut, you ask?  Well, in the States, probably nothing.  But if you're a gringo in Ecuador, it's nice to have something familiar around you. 

In the mall (which I'll do a blog post about at some point in the future, with pictures), there is a really nice food court with KFC, Burger King, chinese food, italian food, mexican food, ecuadorian food, argentinean beef, etc.

It's funny to see how nice our fast-food restaurants are here.  It seems that they are a "special treat" for the folks here.

Here are pictures of the Pizza Hut that is two blocks away from our home.  I never ate at Pizza Hut back in the States, but this is an actual restaurant with a real Italian menu, and very good food.

This family was sitting right across from us. 
The mom had to hurry up and eat because she had to
leave to go back to work.  Her husband and boys stayed
to leisurely finish their almuerzo (lunch).

You can even get home delivery!!

The KFC is just as nice, with two floors, and a children's play area also.

Local Foods Class -- Part 3 of 3

WARNING:  This post shows photos of raw meat, directly from the butcher.

 To end our tour of the marketplace, our last stop was the meat/poultry section.  The first photos show the beef section:

Very fresh

Sausage

Lard (excellent for making pie crusts)

Lamb

Brendan did say that when buying fresh chickens from these markets, look at the color of the skin.  If the skin is yellowish (like in this picture below), that means that they removed the feathers by dipping the chicken in boiling water.  The feathers come out easier that way, but the chicken has been partially cooked.  So it's okay to buy it like this, but you need to cook it right away to finish the cooking process.  On the other hand, if you see chickens with white skin, the feathers have been removed by placing the chicken in cold water.  It's a harder process for them, but much better for the consumer.  The chicken stays fresher and you won't have to cook it immediately the same day you buy it.

Chickens (look for what color the skin is)

This is the meat market (just outside of Diez de Agosto)
where Brendan buys his meat.  His favorite cut is the "flat iron cut".

Local Foods Class -- Part 2 of 3

My last post left off with our class walking to the Mercado 10 de Agosto (otherwise known as Diez de Agosto marketplace).  It was about a fifteen minute walk "up" into town.  This mercado is located just off of Calle Larga (take a left on Calle Larga after you walk up the long, steep ramp).

The potatoes, meat, and fruits are on the first floor; and the vegetables and medicinal flowers are on the second floor.

When you first go inside, you'll see the potatoes (chaucha, cholla, milloco, among others).  The potatoes in the Andes are very starchy so you need to pick the right kind for the type of cooking you're doing.  The chaucha is best for making mashed potatoes, and the cholla pequena make good potato salad because they don't fall apart during the cooking process. 

Price List

Other tubers include cassava/yuca (yucca), oca (yam), camote (sweet potato), and mashua.

Next it's onto the fruit -- and there is so much to choose from.  You'll see fresas (strawberries), moras (blackberries), guineos (bananas), pina (pineapple), pitahaya (dragon fruit), babaco (a type of papaya), uvilla (gooseberry), sandia (watermelon), cherimoya (Mark Twain's favorite fruit), granadilla (passion fruit), tomate de arbol (tree tomato), and guayaba (guava), among others.

Note:  Branden did say that the best apples to make applesauce with are the small ones from Paute (manzanas del Paute).

Moras (blackberries)

Sandias (watermelons) and
Babacos (mountain papaya)

Fresas (strawberries)

Price List

Then it's onto the meat section, where you'll see large cuts of beef and whole chickens.  No pictures here so as to not offend the vegetarians.

Here are pictures of the aesthetics of the building itself:

Escalator

Stairs

Stained Glass Ceiling

Next, it's onto the second floor to the vegetables.  Again, there is so much quantity, it's amazing.  You'll see cebollas (onions), tomates (tomatoes), calabacin (zucchini), coliflor (cauliflower), brocoli (broccoli), calabazas (pumpkins), zanahorias (carrots), and maiz (corn), among other veggies.

Col (cabbage)

Tomate de arbol (tree tomatoes).  They're actually
fruits and make delicious juice.

The onions (cebollas) are already peeled for you!

Price List for the veggies

Zucchini (huge)!

Beautiful

The carrots (zanahorias) are short and fat,
but still very good.

An indigenous woman shelling the corn

Another woman grinding the corn, to make
cornmeal for empanadas, tamales, and humitas.

Now, it's onto the area where they sell the chocolate and the spices:

Also the eggs:

These eggs were beautiful (of course naturally colored)

Lastly, we saw the medicinal plants and flowers.  They were beautiful also:

I had a tea made from these flowers, and it was delicious. 
(You boil the flowers in water, strain, then add sugar and lime juice.)

Now that we know where to buy the groceries, our next class will be to learn how to cook them in delicious recipes.  Not sure when that class will be, but should be soon.